Caterpillars: 10 Proven Ways to Get Rid of them

If you’ve ever stepped into your garden and if you find new holes in your leaves, half-eaten buds, or droppings scattered around like confetti: you probably have caterpillars.

They’re cute in picture books and children’s cartoons…
But in real life?
A hungry caterpillar can destroy weeks of hard work in a single night.

I learned this the hard way one summer. I walked out to check my hibiscus plants and froze. The leaves looked like lace—beautiful, delicate lace, except that’s not how hibiscus leaves should look. A chubby green caterpillar sat in the middle of the destruction like a king who had conquered my garden.

That was the day I decided I needed a battle plan.

This guide is everything I wish I’d known back then.
A mix of expert-backed tips, organic remedies, practical steps, and things gardeners actually find effective—not just “internet advice.”

Let’s dive in.

⭐ What Are Caterpillars & Why Do They Damage Plants?

Caterpillars are the larval stage of butterflies and moths.
Some are harmless.
Many are extremely destructive.

They chew leaves, flowers, buds, fruits—pretty much anything green, soft, or edible in your garden.

Common culprits include:

• Tomato hornworms
• Webworms
• Cabbage loopers
• Armyworms
• Cutworms
• Gypsy moth caterpillars

They eat constantly because they’re preparing to transform into adults.
Cute biology fact.
Not so cute when they’re eating your vegetable garden like a personal buffet.

Monarch Caterpillars 

Monarch caterpillars are the larval stage of the monarch butterfly (Danaus plexippus), recognized by their black, yellow, and white vertical stripes. They feed exclusively on milkweed plants, which provide toxic cardenolides that make the caterpillars and adult butterflies unpalatable to predators.

These caterpillars grow through five instars, molting as they increase up to 2,000 times their original size over about two weeks before pupating into a chrysalis.​

15 Facts about Caterpillars

1. Caterpillars are the baby stage of butterflies and moths. They grow through four stages: egg, caterpillar (larva), pupa, and adult.

2. Monarch caterpillars have black, yellow, and white stripes. They grow in five steps called instars, shedding their skin each time. They can grow up to 2,000 times bigger than when they were born.

3. They only eat milkweed leaves. Milkweed has special toxins called cardenolides. These toxins stay in the caterpillar’s body and make predators avoid them.

4. One monarch caterpillar can finish a whole milkweed leaf in less than five minutes. It eats about 200 times its own body weight.

5. Female monarchs lay 100 to 1,180 eggs, one egg at a time, on milkweed plants. The eggs hatch in 3–8 days into tiny caterpillars.

6. The baby caterpillar eats its eggshell first. Then it eats almost all the time, stopping only to shed its skin. This eating stage lasts about two weeks.

7. Before turning into a pupa, the caterpillar makes a small silk pad, hangs upside down, and sheds its skin one last time to become a chrysalis.

8. Caterpillars have simple eyes called ocelli, strong jaws (mandibles) for chewing, and small tubes (tracheae) that bring air into their bodies through openings called spiracles.

9. The toxins from milkweed stay in their bodies even after they become butterflies, helping protect the adults too.

10. Caterpillars only grow during the larval stage, increasing from about 1.2 mm to 45–50 mm long.

11. Some predators, like tachinid flies, lay eggs on them. The fly larvae then enter the caterpillar’s body.

12. A monarch egg is tiny—about 1/1000th of the mother’s weight. Bigger females lay bigger eggs.

13. The caterpillar stage lasts 10–14 days when it’s warm, but it takes longer when it’s cold.

14. Monarch caterpillars keep most of the milkweed’s toxins in their abdomen and wings for protection.

15. Sadly, fewer than 10% of monarch eggs and caterpillars survive because of predators, weather, and disease.

How to Get Rid of Caterpillars: 10 Proven Methods That Actually Work

These are field-tested by gardeners, pest experts, and yes—by me when my hibiscus was under attack.

1. Do a Daily Hand-Pick Patrol

I know, I know.
It doesn’t sound glamorous.

But hand-picking works better than almost anything else—especially early in an infestation.

How to do it:

• Search early mornings and late evenings (when they’re most active).
• Check the underside of leaves carefully.
• Drop them into a bucket of soapy water.

This is the fastest way to reduce the population immediately.

2. Use Neem Oil (The Natural Insect Repellent)

Neem oil smells a bit like garlic and peanut mixed together, but plants love it—and pests don’t.

When sprayed on leaves:

• Caterpillars stop eating
• They stop growing
• They eventually die off

How to use:

Mix:

• 1 teaspoon neem oil
• ½ teaspoon mild dish soap
• 1 liter warm water

Spray:

• On leaves (top + bottom)
• Every 4–7 days

It’s safe for people, pets, and most beneficial insects.

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3. Try Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) — The Caterpillar Killer

If there’s one product professional gardeners swear by, it’s Bt.
This naturally occurring bacteria only affects caterpillars—not bees, butterflies, birds, or pets.

Why it works:

When caterpillars eat treated leaves, Bt disrupts their digestion.

Where to use:

• Vegetables
• Fruit plants
• Flower beds
• Shrubs

It takes 24–72 hours to see results, but it is incredibly effective.

4. Introduce Caterpillar Predators

If your garden had a natural army, these would be the generals.

Helpful predators include:

• Birds (hang feeders!)
• Parasitic wasps
• Ladybugs
• Tachinid flies
• Predatory beetles
• Backyard chickens (if you have them)

Encouraging these natural hunters creates long-term pest control.

5. Use Diatomaceous Earth (DE)

DE is a fine powder made from fossilized algae.
To us, it feels like soft flour.
To insects, it feels like broken glass.

Sprinkle it:

• On leaves
• Around plant bases
• Along garden edges

It damages caterpillars’ bodies, dehydrating them naturally.
Just reapply after rain or watering.

6. Make a Simple Homemade Caterpillar Spray

If you love DIY remedies, here’s a favorite among old-school gardeners.

Recipe:

Blend:

• 2 cups water
• 1 onion
• 1 garlic bulb
• 1 teaspoon cayenne pepper

Strain it, then add a few drops of dish soap.

Spray on leaves—caterpillars hate this.

This is the trick that saved my hibiscus. Within a week, the damage slowed dramatically.

7. Install Row Covers (Your Plants’ Armor)

Row covers are lightweight fabrics that protect plants without blocking sunlight.

They work well for:

• Lettuce
• Cabbage
• Broccoli
• Herbs
• Young seedlings

Row covers stop moths from laying eggs on your plants in the first place.

8. Prune Infested Leaves

If a plant has:

• Rolled leaves
• Webbed sections
• Black droppings
• Skeletonized leaves

Cut those parts off immediately.

This removes:

• Eggs
• Young caterpillars
• Hiding spots

And stops the spread before it worsens.

9. Attract Butterflies But Block Caterpillar Hotspots

Funny enough, you can enjoy butterflies without letting caterpillars take over your vegetables.

The trick is placement.

Plant butterfly-friendly flowers far from your edible garden:

• Milkweed
• Zinnias
• Marigolds
• Lavender
• Coneflowers

Keep your vegetables and herbs in a separate zone.
This decreases egg-laying on plants you’re trying to protect.

10. Use Insecticidal Soap (Fast & Safe Option)

If you want immediate results without harsh chemicals, insecticidal soap is a safe choice.

It:

• Breaks down caterpillar protective layers
• Suffocates soft-bodied pests
• Works quickly on small infestations

Spray directly on caterpillars for best results.

🌱 How to Prevent Caterpillars From Returning

Killing them is one thing…
Stopping them from coming back is even more important.

Here are long-term prevention steps:

✔ Clean leaf debris regularly

Caterpillars hide under dead leaves and branches.

✔ Remove weeds

Many pests lay eggs on weed varieties first.

✔ Space plants properly

Crowded plants create moist, dark hiding spots.

✔ Monitor weekly

Early detection = easy control.

✔ Rotate crops

Especially important for cabbage loopers, armyworms, and hornworms.

🌼 Are Caterpillars Ever Useful?

Yes!
Healthy gardens need biodiversity.

Not all caterpillars are pests—some turn into beautiful pollinators.

But when they start destroying your fruits, vegetables, or ornamentals, they move from “cute wildlife” to “uninvited guests.”

❓ FAQs About Getting Rid of Caterpillars

Q1. Are caterpillars harmful to humans?

Most are harmless, but some (like the saddleback or puss caterpillar) can sting. Wear gloves while handling any caterpillar you’re unsure about.

Q2. Can caterpillars kill my plants?

Yes. Heavy infestations can defoliate entire plants, stunt growth, or ruin crops.

Q3. What is the fastest way to get rid of caterpillars?

Hand-picking + Bt spray is the fastest and most effective combination.

Q4. Do caterpillars go away on their own?

Sometimes, but waiting usually leads to bigger damage. It’s best to act early.

Q5. Does soapy water kill caterpillars?

Yes. A simple dish-soap-and-water spray can suffocate small caterpillars.

Q6. Are chemical insecticides necessary?

Usually no. Natural methods like neem, Bt, and predators work extremely well. Use chemicals only as a last resort.

Q7. What do caterpillars eat?

Most caterpillars eat plant leaves, especially soft, green foliage. Some also feed on flowers, fruits, or stems depending on the species.

Q8. What do monarch caterpillars eat?

Monarch caterpillars only eat milkweed. It’s their single food source and essential for their growth.

🌿 Final Thoughts

Caterpillars are fascinating creatures, but they can also be garden nightmares when they’re hungry and multiplying. The good news? You don’t need harsh chemicals or expensive treatments to control them.

With a mix of:

• Daily inspections
• Natural sprays
• Protective covers
• Smart planting
• And prevention habits

…you can reclaim your garden and keep it caterpillar-free.

And trust me—walking outside and seeing healthy, hole-free leaves again feels amazing.